TOKYO —

Welcome back to Open Tab, a weekly roundup of the news, gossip, and stories that have stayed open in my tabs all week. Last time we covered the end of Chicken Shop Date.

The culinary landscape is in constant flux, shaped by technological advancements, evolving health consciousness, and shifting global perceptions of gastronomy. This week’s developments highlight these dynamic forces, from the sophisticated machinations of AI agents vying for coveted restaurant reservations to the ongoing debate and legislative action surrounding ultraprocessed foods, and the age-old question of personalizing one’s dining experience.

The AI Reservation Arms Race: A Double-Edged Sword for Diners and Restaurants

The relentless march of artificial intelligence has infiltrated yet another aspect of daily life: securing a table at a popular restaurant. Recent weeks have seen a surge in the use of personal AI agents, capable of performing a myriad of tasks from managing email correspondence and booking travel to, more controversially, snagging those notoriously difficult dinner reservations. Meta’s introduction of Muse, alongside the growing traction of Instinct, signals a new era where AI assistants are being deployed to navigate the complex and often frustrating world of restaurant bookings.

These AI agents operate by inundating reservation platforms with requests, sometimes hundreds per hour, a tactic that has led to immediate repercussions for some users. One individual reportedly faced a ban from a reservation platform after their AI agent engaged in such aggressive booking attempts. This practice, while effective in securing reservations for those who employ it, raises significant ethical questions and presents a substantial challenge for reservation systems designed to facilitate a fair and equitable dining experience.

A spokesperson for Resy, a prominent reservation platform, clarified the company’s stance, stating that "unapproved third-party bots or AI agents to independently access or interact with the Resy platform" are not permitted. This position underscores the delicate balance reservation platforms must strike between embracing technological innovation and maintaining the integrity of their services. While Resy has actively integrated AI capabilities through partnerships with ChatGPT and Claude, their focus remains on ensuring a "fair reservation experience for diners."

The implications of this AI-driven reservation escalation are far-reaching. For the average diner who lacks access to or proficiency with these advanced tools, the already arduous task of securing a reservation at a sought-after establishment becomes even more daunting. This could exacerbate existing inequalities in dining access, favoring those with the technical wherewithal or financial resources to employ sophisticated AI agents.

The potential for an "AI arms race" in the reservation sphere is a genuine concern. As AI agents become more sophisticated and capable of operating within platform terms of service, the difficulty of obtaining reservations could skyrocket. This scenario might inadvertently fuel a resurgence of establishments that prioritize walk-in customers, as they offer a simpler, less technologically mediated path to dining. Restaurants, many of which rely on reservation platforms to maintain consistent bookings and manage their operations efficiently, will need to adapt their strategies to contend with this evolving technological landscape. The question remains: will AI become an indispensable tool for the modern diner, or a divisive force that further stratifies access to desirable dining experiences?

Remembering a Legacy: Windows on the World and the Enduring Impact of 9/11

This week also marks a poignant anniversary: 25 years since the tragic attacks of September 11, 2001. In the culinary world, this solemn occasion has brought renewed attention to the enduring legacy of Windows on the World, the iconic restaurant that once graced the top floors of the North Tower of the World Trade Center. Once the highest-grossing standalone restaurant in the United States, its memory is being honored through various retrospectives.

Numerous articles and documentaries have emerged to commemorate the restaurant and its place in New York City’s history. A CNN documentary, "Top of the World: Windows on the World," offers a deep dive into the establishment’s rise and its unfortunate demise. The restaurant was not merely a dining destination; it was a symbol of aspiration, a testament to the city’s vibrant cultural and economic spirit. Its closure represented a profound loss, not only for the culinary industry but for the collective memory of a nation. The stories emerging now serve as a vital reminder of the human element behind such establishments and the profound impact of the events of that day.

Saudi Arabia’s Culinary Ambitions and the Michelin Guide’s Global Reach

In a fascinating development that speaks to the evolving global perception of culinary destinations, Saudi Arabia is actively pursuing a rebrand as a significant culinary capital. This ambitious endeavor includes the introduction of Michelin stars, a move that signals a concerted effort to elevate its gastronomic standing on the international stage. Last year marked the first time Michelin inspectors visited the Kingdom, a significant step in this strategic repositioning.

The Michelin Guide’s expansion into new territories is often a complex interplay between culinary excellence and economic development. Tourism boards in various regions recognize the immense drawing power of a Michelin star, understanding that such accolades can attract a substantial influx of tourists and boost local economies. However, Gwendal Poullennec, the international director of the Michelin Guide, has consistently maintained that the Guide’s expansion is driven by a genuine commitment to identifying and celebrating "culinary potential" in an ever-increasing number of cities worldwide, rather than solely by financial incentives. This expansion into Saudi Arabia reflects a broader trend of the Guide seeking out emerging culinary scenes and offering them a platform for recognition.

This pursuit of culinary prestige comes at a time when the definition and impact of high-end dining are being scrutinized. The very notion of what constitutes a "culinary capital" is being redefined in the 21st century, with a growing emphasis on diverse food cultures and sustainable practices. Saudi Arabia’s embrace of a globally recognized benchmark like the Michelin Guide is a bold statement of intent, aiming to carve out a distinct identity in the competitive world of international gastronomy.

The Defining Lines of Ultraprocessed Foods: California Takes the Lead

The discourse surrounding ultraprocessed foods (UPFs) has intensified in recent years, fueled by growing concerns about their impact on public health. This week, California has taken a significant legislative step by approving a landmark bill that establishes a framework for foods to be labeled as "non-ultraprocessed." This move follows California’s pioneering efforts in defining what constitutes an ultraprocessed food, a crucial step in addressing public health challenges associated with these products.

While the term "ultraprocessed" may seem intuitive to some – an apple is clearly not ultraprocessed, while a box of fluorescent-hued mac and cheese likely is – a precise, universally accepted definition has remained elusive. This lack of consensus has presented challenges for researchers, policymakers, and consumers alike.

Globally, various definitions are being considered and implemented. Brazilian researchers, for instance, define UPFs as foods containing industrial ingredients such as sweeteners or emulsifiers. The research group Healthy Eating Research offers a broader definition, categorizing UPFs as foods "processed to the extent that they are no longer recognizable as their original plant/animal source." The United States is still in the process of developing an official federal definition, but the momentum generated by state-level initiatives like California’s is undeniable.

The implications of these definitional efforts are already being felt within the food industry. Major food corporations are beginning to respond to the growing consumer awareness and scientific scrutiny surrounding UPFs. PepsiCo, for example, is reportedly shifting its strategic focus towards fresh food innovations, moving away from its traditional reliance on highly processed offerings. Similarly, some cereal manufacturers have begun to eliminate artificial dyes from their products, a nod to consumer demand for more natural ingredients.

Despite these shifts, the debate over UPFs remains complex. The allure of convenience and the familiar taste profiles of many processed foods continue to hold sway for a significant portion of the population. While the trend towards healthier, less processed options is encouraging, the personal enjoyment derived from certain "guilty pleasure" UPFs, like the aforementioned flamin’ hot Cheetos mac and cheese, highlights the enduring tension between health consciousness and culinary indulgence. The ongoing legislative and industry responses to the UPF challenge signal a critical juncture in how we produce, consume, and define food in the modern era.

The Eternal Question: To BYOS or Not to BYOS?

In the realm of dining etiquette, few topics spark as much debate as the practice of bringing one’s own seasonings to a restaurant. While some diners meticulously pack their favorite Maldon sea salt, Calabrian chili oil, or artisanal olive oil to enhance their meals, others view this as a breach of restaurant decorum. This practice, often referred to as BYOS (Bring Your Own Seasoning), raises questions about personal preference, culinary customization, and the traditional patron-establishment relationship.

For proponents of BYOS, the argument often centers on personal taste and the desire to elevate a dish beyond the restaurant’s standard offerings. They may have specific flavor profiles they favor or dietary restrictions that necessitate the use of particular seasonings. The belief is that if a restaurant is willing to accommodate external elements like birthday cakes or wine bottles, personal seasoning enhancements should also be permissible.

Conversely, many restaurateurs and culinary professionals view BYOS as an affront to their craft. The seasonings provided by a restaurant are often carefully curated to complement the menu and the chef’s vision. The introduction of external ingredients can be perceived as a subtle criticism of the kitchen’s capabilities or a disregard for the intended flavor profile of the dish. Furthermore, there are practical considerations, such as the potential for cross-contamination or the disruption of service when diners are preoccupied with their personal condiment collections.

As explored in Maggie Hennessy’s insightful piece for Bon Appétit, the BYOS debate is multifaceted, touching upon individual autonomy, culinary respect, and the evolving nature of dining experiences. Ultimately, the acceptability of BYOS often depends on the establishment’s specific policies, the restaurant’s ambiance, and the diner’s social awareness. While some establishments may implicitly or explicitly discourage the practice, others might be more amenable, particularly in casual dining settings. The continued discussion around BYOS underscores the enduring human desire to personalize our experiences, even in the shared public space of a restaurant.